How
to select the right regulator for yourself
-by
Mike Olsen
The search for the perfect regulator depends
on the following:
- Your budget
- How you are going to use it
- How often you dive
- What type of diving you do; local or traveling
- How much you plan to push the limits
A good regulator should be light in the mouth.
You should not have to come up with sore jaws at the end of the
dive. Hose length and movement, mouthpiece, and weight of the
second stage all combine to let the regulator "float"
in your mouth.
Breathing performance is also important. Do you have to think
about breathing or is it transparent? Most modern regulators work
well in the shallows but the real test is 60' and deeper. Does
it breathe as well or better as you go deeper? A common refrain
is that I only plan on doing shallow dives so why should I buy
a regulator? It has been my experience that the ocean sometimes
has a different plan for me than what I originally intended. I
do not want to find out the limits of the "Kmart special"
in those conditions.
Some regulators allow the adjustment of the
second stage. If the normal factory adjustment works fine for
you, don't bother, but if you enjoy fine-tuning your breathing
then get the adjustable. A finely tuned regulator is easier to
breathe and you use less air. If you are deep and working hard
opening the flow is important. For general diving a finely tuned
regulator is both a joy and you use less air.
Finally, can you get it serviced? Does the
manufacturer stand behind its' products? Do they have a good dealer
network? What kinds of warranty do they provide? A great regulator
that is unsupported is like having no regulator at all.
After over 40 years of diving and having
dove almost every regulator on the market, these are the characteristics
that I look for in a regulator.
Michael Olsen started diving over 40 years
ago while in High School in Minnesota. He was a military and commercial
diver before coming to Florida in 1992 and becoming an instructor
and store owner.

How to select the right buoyancy compensator for
yourself
-by Bobbie Nicosia
Scuba diving is synonymous with equipment.
Outside of your mask, fins and snorkel, I believe the most personal
piece of equipment is the buoyancy compensator.
The buoyancy compensator holds your tank, can carry your weights,
allows for attaching and stowing small accessories; and makes
for easy surface swimming. It is also your own personal elevator
bringing you up and down, with the ability to hover in between
floors. Choosing the correct buoyancy compensator comes down to
investigation of the features that each offers.
Features to look for include:
- Adjustment- Is there a torso adjustment for use with different
thickness of wetsuits/drysuits/no suit at all? A good depth
compensating cummerbund also provides more adjustment and keeps
the buoyancy compensator from riding up on you.
- Weight Integration- Are there enough weight "holders"
for both warm and cold water use?
- Lift- Is there enough lift to float you high on the surface
with a full compliment of gear?
- Dump Valves- Are there multiple configurations for to dump
air regardless of your body position?
- Attachment Points- Are there d-rings or holders for retractors,
lights, and other accessories that you may wish to mount to
your buoyancy compensator? These help to streamline your gear
while keeping you "hands free".
- Warranty- A buoyancy compensator is not an everyday purchase.
Make sure you check the material quality, construction, durability
and warranty.
- Fit- The most important feature when choosing a buoyancy compensator
is fit. Not only should it fit your body comfortably, it should
also fit your style of diving. It would also help greatly if
you find the buoyancy compensator that meets all of you needs
while "fitting" comfortably into your budget.
When you address all of the items included
here, with whatever make or model you choose, you have found the
right buoyancy compensator for you.
Bobbie Nicosia has been diving since 1976.
She is a Platinum Pro 5000 Diver, SSI Instructor Certifier, and
President of Aqua Blue Sports Inc. in Phoenix AZ, in business
since 1955. Diving is both her hobby and her career choice.
How
to select the right dive computer for yourself
-by Robert H. Tseng
Today's computer market can be very confusing
to the new buyer. However, three simple guidelines can make your
search easier and your final purchase the correct one.
First, there is no single computer
on the market that is the "best" for everyone. You must
decide on the features and benefits of each model that best fits
your style of diving. Is nitrox diving something you will do?
Is the capability to PC download important to you? Are the digits
on the screen easy enough to read? Is the computer easy to use?
Secondly, realize that this is a long-term
purchase. Think out how you may progress forward in the sport,
not simply what you are doing today.
Thirdly, and perhaps the most overlooked
aspect, is the reputation and customer service attitude of the
manufacturer of the unit. There are almost no dive stores that
can truly service a computer on site, other than changing batteries
and depth testing a unit. The store must rely on the back-up from
the manufacturer for this particular product. This, along with
the reputation and attitude of the dive store, is of critical
importance when choosing a brand and where you choose to buy it.
Just like automobiles, there is a diving
computer on the market that will fit everyone's budget. It's simply
a matter of which features you wish to purchase to enhance your
diving experience. Price, I could never understand the concept
of buying "discount" life support equipment....it even
sounds like a bad joke.
So, you want to buy a dive computer. Review
the aforementioned guidelines and go to your local dive store
to check out their offerings. Talk it through with the store professionals.
Now you should have no problem finding the right computer for
you.
Robert H. Tseng has been diving for the past
36 years and has been an active SCUBA instructor for 25 years.
While Bob's diving credentials are too numerous to mention here,
suffice to say he holds the rating of Master Instructor, the highest
level of International Instructor certification. Bob is president
of The Westchester Dive Center and Byram Bay Sports, the two largest
organizations in the area for recreational SCUBA Diving.
How
to select the right fins for yourself
-by Dave Kasper
Fit and function are everything when selecting
the right fins. When buying sporting equipment, I favor buying
high quality the first time to avoid the dreaded "re-buy."
There are two categories of fins, open heel
($60-$200) and full foot ($30- $150). Open heel fins work well
in all environments. They are mandatory for water much below seventy-five
degrees, because in this environment your feet will need the warmth
and protection of a bootie. Full foot fins, with a complete foot
pocket, are designed for SCUBA diving in warmer water as well
as snorkeling.
With all fins, priority one is fit. Proper
fit requires first selecting your boots (for open heel fins) or
fin socks (for full foot fins). With open heel fins I like to
see anywhere from one to four inches of boot heel sticking out
beyond the pocket base. Less than that means the fin pocket is
too large or the top of the fin pocket may aggravate the tendons
of your feet; more means there may be stress on your toes and
knees because of the "pivot point" (your ankle) is too
far back from the blade of the fin.
Divers often tighten their fin straps too
much. The strap should simply hold the foot in place rather than
cramming it in the fin. Your foot should not slide side to side
when you shake the fin in the air. Nor should it be squeezed at
the ball of your foot. Full foot fins should fit snugly, yet comfortably,
over your bare foot or fin sock. Too loose and the fin will rub
uncomfortably, as well as be less efficient. Too tight and you
could face foot cramps, as well as find it awfully hard to put
on.
Once you have narrowed your options with
fit you will have a few fins to choose from based upon design.
By far, the most significant improvement in fin design in the
last decade has been the introduction of the "split fin".
Even though split fins are more expensive than conventional paddle
designs, I highly recommend them. The efficiency and power are
well worth the price. However, if you don't want to put that much
money into your fin purchase, there are alternative designs on
the market that also improve the efficiency and power, some at
a significantly lower price. Lower resistance from your fins while
kicking is the result of good engineering. As you would expect,
prices are higher for the better designs.
Dave's tip- The smart shopper is certain
to leave the dive store with at least one extra buckle and strap
assembly, as well as a mesh bag to easily transport and rinse
their new investments.
Dave Kasper is a NAUI Course Director and
Technical Diving Instructor. He is also a PADI Master SCUBA Diver
Trainer. Dave has been diving since 1983 and logged more than
3,000 dives. Dave is co-founder of Huron Scuba Adventures (2 stores),
serving Southeastern Michigan since 1996.
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