How long does it take to get certified?

If you're getting full-day instruction from a dive shop, at a dive location, then it depends on their schedule, class size, and how fast you learn. The standard "Open Water Diver" certification will typically be a four- or five-day process.

If you're just taking evening lessons at home, once or twice a week, it will probably take four to six weeks for this.

 

I get pain in my ears when I go below 10 feet. Can I dive?

Part of learning to dive is learning to clear your ears -- that is, equalizing the pressure inside and outside your eardrum. It takes most people a few days to get the hang of this, but soon you'll do it automatically.

If you have ear infections or other blockages that might keep you from clearing your ears, then you should check with a doctor before proceeding.

 

How long will I be able to stay underwater?

That depends on how deep you are, and how heavily you're breathing. Air gets compressed at greater depths, so with each breath, you'll go through more of it. You can often stay down 45 minutes to an hour at depths of 20 to 30 feet. On deeper dives, you may only get 15 or 20 minutes. As you get more experienced, you'll learn to prolong your air supply by breathing more slowly, and by conserving your energy.

 

What about attacks from barracuda, sharks, eels, and giant squid?

Bee stings kill more people than do sharks -- but shark attacks make for better movies. In reality, there are no aquatic animals that routinely attack humans, unless you provoke them by poking them, sticking your hand into their home, or getting too close to one with territorial instincts.

As part of your certification lessons, you'll learn some common-sense precautions. Most of these, however, are more for the protection of sea creatures than of you. You pose a much larger threat to them than they do to you.

 

Can I wear contact lenses or glasses while diving?

Soft contact lenses should not be a problem. Bring an extra pair or two, in case one washes out.

Eyeglasses worn under a dive mask are neither fashionable nor practical. However, it's more economical than you might think to have your prescription ground into the mask itself. Your optician or dive shop can advise you on where to have it done.

 

Where Should I Buy Gear?

Scuba equipment can be purchased in dive stores, at other retail outlets, by mail order or as used equipment from private parties. There are distinct advantages and disadvantages to each.

Private party. Buying used gear from a private party may be the cheapest possible way to go, but provides absolutely no guarantees. Unless you are extremely knowledgeable or an equipment technician, you will not know if a regulator, for example, can even be serviced. You will also not have any performance data. The seller's statement that the regulator "breathes fine" and your breathing on it out of the water are both meaningless. We recommend not buying used life-support equipment from private parties.

Nondive store retail outlets. Sporting goods and discount stores may have scuba gear for sale. Some of these stores actually have scuba departments and should be considered dive stores. However, most are simply retail outlets and cannot provide the service, support and expertise that a dive store can. Other than price, there is no reason to buy at these nondive store outlets. And even price may not be an advantage since name-brand gear can often be purchased at dive stores at discount prices.

Mail order. Catalog buying is a popular and useful way to shop, particularly when some products are not available locally or may be purchased through a catalog for significantly less money (including shipping and handling charges).

But buying scuba gear through the mail is not like buying a sweater from a clothing catalog. In particular, our concerns are these:

- Diver life-support products should not be sold to unqualified buyers.

- 2 Dive gear should not be sold when operating incorrectly.

-Gear should not be sold to a diver without regard to proper fit and function.

- Little service or support is available by mail order, and gear that is not purchased locally may not be able to be serviced locally and may have no warranty.

If cost is your compelling selection criterion, we suggest consulting RSD's "Best Buy" lists for those products that offer the best performance for the price. The least expensive is not necessarily the best buy.

Dive Stores. Retail dive stores have been the focal point of local dive support since recreational diving became popular. Your local dive store can provide instruction, dive travel, local dives, inspection and repair services, compressed air, rental equipment, equipment advice and the opportunity to look at, feel, compare and test equipment before purchase. In addition, the store can back up products immediately if necessary. Personal contact is also an important part of a dive store's value. In short, a dive store is in a better position than a mail-order dealer to provide the service and support you need and should expect. 

 

How do I know what gear to buy?

Go Local. At RSD, we believe in supporting your local dive store for reasons of diver safety. However, not every store carries every brand of gear. If you decide on a brand or model that your favorite store doesn't have, ask them if they can order it for you. Don't feel obligated to buy what a store carries in stock unless you're certain the substitution meets all your criteria for a piece of gear.

Invest Wisely. Yes, owning your own gear requires a considerable investment. But you can expect quality gear to last, literally, for years. You aren't buying running shoes or roller blades that eventually wear out and have to be replaced. When properly cared for and maintained, your gear should last as long as you want it to. Now that's a bargain. 

 

How does a wetsuit work?

A wetsuit keeps you warm in two ways:

Keeping Water Out. Any water that gets inside the suit is going to leak out again. When the water is inside, it absorbs some of your body heat. When it leaves, it takes that heat with it. So the first thing a wetsuit has to do is keep the cold ocean from flushing through it. A good fit, one that feels equally snug everywhere, is critical, so the space the ocean wants to use to flow along your skin is as small as possible.

Providing Insulation Against Heat Loss. A little science here: Solids and liquids conduct heat well; gases do not. Air, for example, is about 20 times less conductive than water. As a practical matter, good insulationabove or below wateris all about trapping air. That's why neoprene foam works so well. Gas bubbles are permanently trapped inside the "closed cells" of the wetsuit material.

Our tests have shown that other "innovations"such as metal foils and fleece linings in suitsdo nothing to enhance insulation. However, some features can help the suit do its job. They include: wrist, collar and ankle seals; sealing flaps behind zippers; pre-bent arms and legs; and smooth inner coatings to minimize water flow inside the suit. 

 

When I get my gear, how do I take care of it?

Scuba gear is designed to be rugged and durable. Most items will last you many years—if you take care of them properly. Some top tips from old pros:

- Immerse your gear in fresh, clean water after use. Do not spray.

- Partially fill your BC with fresh water, slosh it around, then drain.

- Allow each item to dry thoroughly before storing in a cool, dry and clean area.

- Avoid prolonged exposure to sunlight, heat and chlorinated water.

- Do not allow contact with petroleum products or other solvents.

- Protect your gear from physical shock when transporting it, especially on airlines.

- At least once per year (more if you dive frequently) have your BC, reg and computer serviced by your dive store. The leading cause of equipment failure is lack of maintenance.

- Do not allow moisture into the air intake of your regulator's first stage, and do not depress the purge on your second stage unless the unit is pressurized.

- Inspect each item of gear well before a planned dive trip so there is time for repairs. Do not dive if your equipment is less than 100 percent reliable.  

 

Can you explain the dive lingo?

Aluminum-80 The most common scuba cylinder, so named because it is supposed to hold 80 cubic feet of air. In actuality, it usually holds about 77.4 cubic feet.

Annual The required yearly visual inspection for scuba tanks. Also, a similar checkup for regulators.

BC Buoyancy compensator. Also known as a BCD, or buoyancy control device.

Boot Protective covering on the bottom of a tank.

Booties Footwear for divers.

Bottle Another word for scuba tank.

Console A unit attached to a hose from the regulator first stage for holding and displaying instruments, including dive computer, depth gauge and compass.

Doubles Two tanks linked together for use on a single dive.

DPV Diver propulsion vehicle, an underwater scooter.

Dump A valve used to deflate a BC.

Farmer John Wetsuit pants that extend over the upper body and shoulders (similar to overalls).

First Stage The part of the regulator that attaches to the tank and reduces the pressure of the air in the tank to an intermediate pressure.

Free Flow An unwanted loss of air from a regulator.

Glow Stick A chemical light stick usually attached to the tank valve during a night dive so a diver can be seen in the dark by his buddy and other divers. Also called a cyalume stick.

Hydro Short for "hydrostatic test." A pressure test for scuba tanks, performed in water. Required for every scuba cylinder in the U.S. every five years.

Lead The weights worn to offset a diver's positive buoyancy.

Mil Short for millimeter, usually used in reference to wetsuit thickness (i.e., a three-mil suit).

Octopus A backup or secondary regulator second stage.

O-ring A pliable ring that forms a high-pressure seal on tank valves. Also used on underwater cameras and other equipment to provide a waterproof seal.

Port An opening in the regulator first stage for hose attachment.

Primary The main regulator second stage, as opposed to the backup or octopus second stage.

Quick Disconnect Any one of several different types of fittings that can be used to remove a hose or strap quickly with one hand.

Rebreather An underwater breathing unit that recycles a breathing gas, removing carbon dioxide and adding oxygen.

Second Stage The part of the regulator at the end of the hose that includes the mouthpiece. The second stage reduces the pressure in the hose to a breathable pressure.

Shorty A one-piece wetsuit with short legs and short sleeves.

Spg Submersible pressure gauge.

Tube Snorkel.